Picture of  triệu thúy kiều

triệu thúy kiều

Thúy Kiều (Grace) is a travel blogger and content contributor for Loop Trails Tours Ha Giang. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Sustainable Tourism from Vietnam National University, Hanoi, and has a strong passion for exploring and promoting responsible travel experiences in Vietnam’s northern highlands.

Plus Size Travel in Vietnam: The Ha Giang Loop Guide

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ha giang loop with looptrails in tham ma pass

Adventure travel content has a habit of assuming a body type. Every photograph of the Ha Giang Loop shows the same lean twenty something on a motorbike, and if that is not what you look like, you are left guessing about the things that actually decide whether a trip works: will the bike take me, will I fit in the jeep, how much walking is there really, will there be a life jacket in my size.

Nobody publishes that. So people either book blind and hope, or do not book at all.

This page answers those questions as directly as we can, without the health lecture and without pretending constraints do not exist where they do. Where the answer depends on our specific equipment, it says so and tells you to ask, because a real number from an operator is worth more than a reassuring paragraph from a blog.

Northern Vietnam is a superb trip and it is available to you. Some versions of it suit better than others.

What this page is

ha giang loop for a female group with looptrails 12 Day Northern Vietnam Itinerary

It is a logistics guide. There is nothing here about fitness, health or what you should weigh, because that is not our business and you did not come here for it.

What is here: equipment capacities, seat and vehicle notes, a stop by stop breakdown of how much walking each site actually involves, the safety kit that comes in limited sizes, and the questions worth asking before you pay a deposit.

The short answer

  • The jeep is the most comfortable option and it removes almost every constraint on this page. It is also priced per vehicle rather than per seat.
  • Riding pillion on an easy rider tour has a practical limit, because it is a small bike carrying a guide, a passenger and luggage over mountain passes. Ask the operator for their actual figure.
  • Self drive is fine if you ride, and the bike you choose matters more than usual.
  • The route itself is mostly not demanding on foot. Two or three stops involve real walking, and you can skip those without missing the trip.
  • Bring your own helmet, rain gear and life jacket if you have them. Vietnamese sizing runs small in all three.

Riding pillion: the weight question

ha giang loop with looptrails in bac sum pass

The most asked question and the one operators are worst at answering.

An easy rider tour puts you on the back of a small motorbike, ridden by an experienced local guide, over sustained mountain climbs and descents. The bikes used across Ha Giang are small by Western standards. That machine is carrying the guide, you, and the luggage for both of you, on roads with long climbs, long descents and loose surfaces on the corners.

There is a point at which that combination stops working. It is a fact about the bike’s brakes, suspension and engine rather than about the person on the back, and any operator who has been running tours for a while knows roughly where their limit sits.

What to do: ask directly, before you book. A good operator will give you a straight number or a straight answer, without embarrassment. A vague answer is information too.

If you are near or over the limit, the options are a jeep, or in some cases a larger bike with a guide who rides one, which is worth asking about. Neither is a downgrade. The jeep in particular sees exactly the same route.

What we would not do is take a booking and hope it works out on the morning, which is how people end up standing in Ha Giang City having flown a very long way. Ask us. We will tell you.

Want a straight answer rather than a paragraph? Message us with your situation and we will tell you what our bikes take, what the jeep seats are like and which version we would actually recommend. If the answer is that the jeep suits you better, we will say so rather than sell you the cheaper option and hope.

Self drive: the bike matters more than you think

self-drive a motorbike on ha giang loop

If you ride at home and hold the right licence, self drive is available and the choice of machine matters more here than it would on flat roads.

Automatic scooters are the smallest, lightest option and the weakest for this. Small wheels, limited suspension travel, and no engine braking on long descents, which means the brakes do all the work. They are the least suitable choice on a loaded mountain route for any rider, and more so with more weight on board.

Semi automatic bikes, the Honda Wave style machines most of Vietnam rides, are a step up: engine braking, better on rough surfaces, still small.

Manual bikes in the Honda XR150 category have more suspension travel, stronger brakes and more power for climbs, and they are the most comfortable of the three over a long day. If you ride a manual at home, this is the one to ask for.

Ask about the specific bike, not the category. Suspension setup and tyre condition vary between machines in any fleet, and an operator who maintains their bikes will know which ones are best set up for a heavier load.

Seat comfort is a real factor over several days. Most people, at any size, are uncomfortable by day three on a standard seat. A gel pad or a cushion is cheap and it is one of the better decisions you can make.

Licensing is unchanged by any of this: passport, a valid motorbike licence from home and an International Driving Permit issued under the 1968 Vienna Convention. The 1949 style permit is not recognised in Vietnam. The paperwork guide covers it, and rules change, so verify before you travel.

The jeep, and what to check about it

ha giang loop for a family in chin khoanh pass Ha Giang Loop from the UK and Europe

For a lot of people reading this, the jeep is the answer, and it is worth saying that it is not a consolation prize. It sees the same passes, the same gorge, the same villages and the same markets, and it is more comfortable in weather.

That said, jeeps vary enormously, so check three things before you book.

Seat width. Bench seats in older vehicles are narrower than modern car seats. Ask for the actual measurement rather than a reassurance.

The step up. Ex military jeeps sit high and the step into them can be substantial. If getting into a high vehicle is difficult for you, for any reason, ask about it and ask whether a step is available. This is a completely normal question and a good operator will answer it without making it awkward.

Seatbelts. Older vehicles have shorter belts. Bring an extender if you own one, and ask what the vehicle actually has fitted.

Ask for photographs of the interior, not the exterior. Every operator has beautiful shots of a jeep on a pass and almost none of the back seat. Ask anyway. If they will not send one, that tells you something.

On pricing, jeeps are charged per vehicle rather than per seat, so travelling with one or two other people brings the cost per person down a long way. It is the one option where a group makes it cheaper rather than the same.

Questions to ask any operator before booking

tourists of looptrails in ma pi leng pass

Copy these into an enquiry. Any operator worth booking will answer all of them plainly.

  1. What is your weight limit for riding pillion on an easy rider tour?
  2. How wide are the jeep seats, and how high is the step into the vehicle?
  3. Can you provide a life jacket in my size for the boat trip, and what sizes do you have?
  4. Can you provide a helmet in my size, and up to what size?
  5. Are private rooms available at every overnight stop, or only some?
  6. Which stops on the itinerary involve walking, and how much?
  7. Can any stop be skipped or waited out if I would rather not do it?

The last one matters more than people expect. Being able to sit at the top of a viewpoint with a coffee while others walk down to something is a perfectly good day, and an operator who treats that as normal is the operator you want.

Getting there

ha giang loop with looptrails in chin khoanh pass cao bang photography guide

Flights. Standard advice applies and you will already know it: check the airline’s policy on seatbelt extenders and on seat sizing before you fly, book seats in advance rather than accepting an allocation, and consider an aisle seat for the long haul leg.

The night bus from Hanoi to Ha Giang. Sleeper buses have fixed bunk pods that are narrow, and they are one of the tighter spaces on this trip for anyone tall or broad. Limousine vans are the alternative: proper reclining seats, more space, and generally a more comfortable ride. They cost more than the sleeper bus and for many people they are worth it.

Ask your operator to book the limousine rather than the sleeper if that suits you better, and say so early, because seats sell out on popular dates.

Luggage. Most accommodation in Ha Giang City will store the bag you do not need on the loop, which is worth doing regardless.

Every stop, and how much walking it involves

ha giang loop for a couple in nho que river

This is the most useful table on the page, and nobody else publishes it.

StopWalking involvedCan you skip it
Quan Ba, Heaven GateNone. Roadside viewpointNot applicable
Bac Sum and Tham Ma passesNone. Stop at the roadsideNot applicable
Vuong family palaceFlat, short, some uneven stoneYes, easily
Lung Cu flag towerA long staircase to the tower and a spiral stair insideYes. The view from the base is still good
Dong Van old quarterFlat, short distances, cobblesNo need to skip
Ma Pi Leng pass viewpointsNone. RoadsideNot applicable
Ma Pi Leng skywalkA narrow, exposed cliff path with no barrier in placesYes, and plenty of people do. The pass view is superb without it
Nho Que boatA descent to the boat landing and steps at the waterAsk about the landing before committing
Du Gia waterfallA short walk down and back upYes
Lung Tam weaving villageFlat, minimalNo need to skip
MarketsFlat, but crowded and uneven underfootNo need to skip
Nguom Ngao cave, Cao BangAbout an hour on a paved but wet walkway with stepsYes, or turn back at any point
Ban Gioc waterfall, Cao BangFlat, easy. The raft has a step down into itNo need to skip
God’s Eye Mountain, Cao BangTwenty to forty minutes across uneven grassland, no shadeYes. Many people photograph it from the parking area

The pattern is clear: the great majority of what makes this trip good is roadside, flat or short. The three that involve real effort are the Lung Cu stairs, the cave and the walk to God’s Eye Mountain, and none of them is the reason you came.

Skipping something is not failing. Sitting somewhere with a view while the group walks down to a thing is a completely reasonable way to spend forty minutes.

Life jackets, boats and rafts

swimming at du gia waterfall in yen minh

Learn more: Du Gia Waterfall

Worth its own section because it is a safety item rather than a comfort one.

The two water activities on these routes are the boat through the Nho Que gorge in Ha Giang and the bamboo raft at Ban Gioc in Cao Bang. Both provide life jackets, and life jackets in Vietnam are sized for Vietnamese adults.

Ask before you book whether large sizes are available and what the largest size is. If the answer is unclear, bring your own. A packable adult life jacket is not expensive and it takes up little space, and having one removes the question entirely.

A jacket that does not fasten properly is not a life jacket. This is the one item on this whole page where “it will probably be fine” is not an acceptable answer, and any operator who shrugs at the question is telling you how seriously they take safety generally.

Helmets and rain gear

wearing safety gears before a trip (2)

Helmets. Rental helmets in Vietnam run small, and a helmet that does not fit properly does not protect you. If you ride at home, bring your own. If you cannot, ask the operator what sizes they stock before you arrive, and be specific.

Rain gear. Vietnamese ponchos and rain suits are sized small and they are what most operators hand out. Bring your own rain jacket and over trousers. Northern Vietnam rains in every season and this is not the place to discover that the poncho does not close.

Riding gloves, if you are on a bike at all, including as a passenger. Also usually sized small locally.

None of this is a reason not to come. It is a reason to pack differently from the standard list.

Accommodation and bathrooms

Ha Giang Homestay Guide

Honest and practical.

Homestays on these routes are usually wooden stilt houses or village homes. Sleeping is either a dorm room with mattresses laid out, often on the floor or on a low platform, or a private room with a bed. Floor mattresses suit some people and not others, and getting up from floor level is worth thinking about in advance.

Private rooms are an upgrade rather than the standard on most tour rates, so ask for one when you book rather than on the day. On our tours the standard rate covers dormitory style accommodation and a private room is available as an upgrade.

Bathrooms vary a lot. Some homestays have modern bathrooms and some have small, basic ones. Doorways and cubicles can be narrow, and squat toilets exist alongside seated ones in this region. If a seated toilet matters to you, ask when booking and it can usually be arranged, because operators know which places have what.

Stairs. Stilt houses are raised, which means steps up to the living floor, sometimes steep and sometimes with a handrail and sometimes not. Ask if this matters to you.

None of that is unique to plus size travellers, and all of it is more useful said out loud than left to be discovered.

Heat, cold and pacing

ha giang loop for a group with looptrails

Summer, roughly June to August, is hot and very humid across northern Vietnam. Everybody finds it hard work. Practical responses: start early, take the middle of the day slowly, drink more water than feels necessary and use the swimming stops. There are good ones at Du Gia in Ha Giang and along the Quay Son in Cao Bang.

Winter, roughly December to February, is genuinely cold on the plateau, with fog on the passes. Layers, and warm gear bought at home rather than sourced there.

Pacing. The single best adjustment on this trip, for anyone, is fewer stops and longer at each. A day with four stops and time to sit down at them beats a day with eight stops and a schedule. Tell your guide on day one that you would rather do this and mean it. Good guides prefer it.

Say what you need. If you want the bike to stop more often, if you want to skip a walk, if you want ten minutes before moving on, say so. Guides cannot read minds and will absolutely accommodate it, but only if they know.

What to bring from home

ha giang loop for a family in thai an waterfall (3)

The items where local sizing will let you down.

  • A helmet that fits, if you are riding
  • A rain jacket and over trousers
  • A packable life jacket, if you want to be certain
  • A seatbelt extender, if you own one, for the flight and the jeep
  • Riding gloves
  • Any technical clothing in your size, since it is not readily available locally
  • A gel seat pad or cushion, if riding several days
  • Blister and chafe prevention of whatever kind works for you, since humidity is relentless
  • A packable towel, because the swimming stops are the best part of a hot day
  • Any medication you rely on, since mountain pharmacies are basic

Which option is best for you: jeep, easy rider or self drive

ha giang loop with easy riders of looptrails

A jeep removes nearly every constraint on this page. Same route, same stops, more comfort, better in weather, luggage is not a problem and there is no weight question. Check seat width and step height before booking. Because the price covers the whole vehicle, travelling with one, two or three others makes it comfortably the best value option available.

Easy rider works well within the operator’s stated limit, and it is the most immersive way to travel these roads. Ask for the number before you book, and ask about a larger bike if you are close to it.

Self drive if you ride at home, hold the correct licence and IDP and want the freedom. Choose a manual or semi automatic over a scooter, ask about the specific machine, and take a gel pad. We handle motorbike rental in Ha Giang if you want a bike without a tour attached.

Mixed groups are normal. Some of the group on bikes and some in the jeep is an arrangement we run constantly, and nobody has to justify which one they are in.

Book once your dates are set. Most guests book one to three months ahead, and jeep availability is tighter than motorbikes.

What a good operator does

ma pi leng pass, see the nho que river below

Worth knowing what to expect, so you can tell the difference.

Answers the questions directly, with numbers where numbers exist, without awkwardness and without making you feel like you are asking for a favour.

Says no when the answer is no. If a bike will not take a combined load safely, the right response is to say so and offer the jeep, not to take the booking and improvise on the morning.

Sources the right kit where they can, and says clearly where they cannot.

Treats skipping a stop as normal, because it is.

Does not make it a topic. You are a guest on a tour, not a logistics problem, and the conversation should happen once at the booking stage and then not again.

If an operator gets defensive or vague when you ask any of the questions in this article, that is useful information about how the rest of the trip would go.

Planning a trip and want the real answers? Message us on WhatsApp with what you would like to do and what you need to know. We will give you our actual numbers, tell you which option we would recommend and why, and if the honest answer is that a different itinerary suits you better, we will tell you that too.

ha giang loop for a couple in ma pi leng pass plus size travel in vietnam

faq

In practice yes, because it is a small motorbike carrying a guide, a passenger and luggage over mountain passes. Operators who have run tours for a while know roughly where their limit sits, so ask directly before you book. If you are near or over it, a jeep covers exactly the same route

Yes. The great majority of the route is roadside viewpoints, short flat stops and villages, and the jeep option removes almost every physical constraint. Three stops involve real walking and all three are optional

It depends on the vehicle, so ask specific questions before booking: seat width, the height of the step into the vehicle and what seatbelts are fitted. Older and ex military jeeps sit higher and have narrower bench seats than modern vehicles. Ask for a photo of the back seat rather than the exterior

The staircase at Lung Cu flag tower, the walkway through Nguom Ngao Cave in Cao Bang and the twenty to forty minute walk across grassland to God’s Eye Mountain. All three can be skipped without losing what makes the trip good

Life jackets in Vietnam are sized for local adults, so ask what the largest available size is before you book. If the answer is unclear, bring a packable adult life jacket from home. A jacket that does not fasten properly is not doing its job

Rental helmets here run small. If you ride at home, bring your own, and if you cannot, ask the operator what sizes they stock and be specific. A helmet that does not fit correctly does not protect you.

Sleeper buses have narrow fixed bunk pods and are one of the tighter spaces on the trip. Limousine vans have proper reclining seats and more room for more money, and many people find that worth it. Ask your operator to book the limousine if it suits you better, and do it early

On most tour rates dormitory accommodation is standard and a private room is an upgrade, so request one when you book. Ask whether private rooms are available at every overnight stop or only some, because it varies by village

Bathrooms range from modern to basic, cubicles can be narrow and both squat and seated toilets are common in this region. If a seated toilet matters to you, say so when booking, because operators know which accommodation has what.

Yes, if you ride at home and hold a valid motorbike licence plus an International Driving Permit issued under the 1968 Vienna Convention. Choose a manual or semi automatic bike rather than a scooter, because engine braking and suspension matter more on these descents, and take a gel seat pad.

Yes, and a good guide will treat that as completely normal. Waiting at a viewpoint with a coffee while others walk down to something is a perfectly good way to spend forty minutes and nobody should make it awkward

A helmet that fits, rain jacket and over trousers, riding gloves, a seatbelt extender if you use one, a packable life jacket if you want certainty, and any technical clothing in your size. Local sizing runs small in all of these

Contact information for Loop Trails
Website: Loop Trails Official Website

Email: looptrailshostel@gmail.com

Hotline & WhatSapp:
+84862379288
+84938988593

Social Media:
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Office Address: 54A Tran Phu, Ha Giang 2, Tuyen Quang
Address: 54A Tran Phu, Ha Giang 2, Tuyen Quang

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