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triệu thúy kiều

Thúy Kiều (Grace) is a travel blogger and content contributor for Loop Trails Tours Ha Giang. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Sustainable Tourism from Vietnam National University, Hanoi, and has a strong passion for exploring and promoting responsible travel experiences in Vietnam’s northern highlands.

Northern Vietnam Loops Compared: Ha Giang, Cao Bang, Ba Be, Mai Chau and Y Ty

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tourists of looptrails in ma pi leng pass

Everybody arrives in Hanoi with the same question. There are five or six mountain routes north of the city, they all look spectacular in photos, and nobody can tell you which one to do because the honest answer depends on things nobody asks you: how long you have, whether you ride, what month it is, and whether you want a big adventure or a quiet one.

We ride two of these loops constantly and have travelled the other three as visitors. This is the comparison we give people when they message us undecided, including the parts where the answer is not one of ours.

No loop here is better than the others. They are different, and the differences matter a lot more than any ranking.

The short version

ha giang loop with looptrails in thai an waterfall Best Time for Adventure Travel in Vietnam

If you want the decision without the reading:

  • Ha Giang if you have three or four days and want the biggest landscape in Vietnam. It is the most spectacular and the busiest.
  • Cao Bang if you want something equally good and much quieter, built around water and villages instead of passes.
  • Ba Be if you want two slow days on a lake with a stilt house homestay and no pressure.
  • Mai Chau if you have a weekend, are new to riding, or are travelling with people who are not going to enjoy a mountain pass.
  • Y Ty if you are an experienced rider, it is September or cloud season, and you want the emptiest roads on this list.

Everything below is why.

What counts as a loop up here

Worth clearing up, because the word gets used loosely.

Ha Giang and Cao Bang are genuine loops: circular routes that start and finish in the same town with no backtracking. You ride out, you ride round, you come back.

Ba Be, Mai Chau and Y Ty are destinations that people ride to and around. You can build a circuit out of each of them, and locals and guides do, but the shape is more of an out and back with a wander in the middle. That is not a criticism. It just changes how you plan the days.

The five at a glance

a family doing the ha giang loop with looptrails in quan ba twin mountains
LoopDaysRiding difficultyCharacterCrowdsBest months
Ha Giang3 to 4ModerateHigh passes, karst plateau, altitudeHeavySep to Nov, Mar to May
Cao Bang3Easy to moderateWaterfall, river valleys, craft villagesLightSep to Nov, Mar to May
Ba Be2 to 3EasyLake, forest, stilt villagesLight to moderateMar to May, Sep to Nov
Mai Chau2EasiestValley floor, Thai villages, gentle hillsModerate, concentratedOct to Apr
Y Ty3 to 4HardestCloud seas, terraces, earthen housesLight except SeptemberSep, and cloud season Oct to Apr

Seasons are patterns rather than promises. Northern weather turns fast and the same month can behave differently two years running.

Ha Giang Loop

ha giang loop with looptrails in quan ba heaven gate ha giang-cao bang 5 days

The one everybody has heard of, and there is a reason for that.

What you get

The Dong Van karst plateau is a UNESCO Global Geopark and it looks like nowhere else in the country: grey limestone spikes for as far as you can see, villages balanced on ridges, and roads that were carved into cliff faces by hand. Ma Pi Leng is the headline, a pass cut into the wall above the Nho Que river, and the boat trip through the Tu San canyon underneath it is one of the genuinely great hours in Vietnamese travel.

Around that you get Quan Ba and the Heaven Gate, the Tham Ma switchbacks, the flag tower at Lung Cu at the northernmost point of the country, the Vuong family palace, and Du Gia in the south with a waterfall you can swim in. Sunday markets across the plateau are working markets, not shows. In roughly October and November the buckwheat flowers come out across the plateau, which is worth timing a trip around if you can

The catch

It is busy. In high season the main circuit carries a lot of riders, hostels run big groups, and Ma Pi Leng in October has a queue at the viewpoints. It has also had more accidents than anywhere else on this list, simply because it has vastly more inexperienced riders on mountain roads.

Three days is the standard and it is slightly rushed. Four days is the version that includes Du Gia, the swimming and enough time to stop.

Best for

First trips to northern Vietnam, riders who want big landscape, anybody with three or four days who wants the thing they have seen in photos. Also, honestly, people who want a social trip: the group evenings on this loop are a real part of the appeal.

Not sure between the big two? Ha Giang is passes, altitude and rock. Cao Bang is water, forest and villages. If you have the days, our Ha Giang and Cao Bang combined route rides both back to back on the connecting road through Bao Lac, which almost nobody takes and which is one of the best in the north.

Cao Bang Loop

cao bang loop with looptrails in ba quang

The northeastern corner, against the Chinese border, and the loop we would send most people to if Ha Giang did not exist.

What you get

Ban Gioc, a wide terraced waterfall spread across an international border, with bamboo rafts that take you out to the base of it. Nguom Ngao, a large cave with a lit walkway through the main chambers. Then the Quay Son river, which runs an unreasonable jade green through Trung Khanh and into Phong Nam, a flat valley of rice fields ringed almost completely by karst.

The craft villages around Quang Uyen are the part guests talk about afterwards: families still forging blades from recycled steel, incense drying in fans outside the houses. And out at Tra Linh there is God’s Eye Mountain, a limestone ridge with a natural hole punched through it above open grassland

The catch

It is less dramatic than Ha Giang in the way photographs measure drama. There is no Ma Pi Leng here. If your priority is the single biggest view of your trip, Ha Giang wins.

Getting there is also less streamlined. Fewer buses, fewer rental shops, less infrastructure built around foreign travellers.

Best for

Riders who have already done Ha Giang, travellers who dislike crowds, families and couples, and anyone who prefers villages and water to altitude. Also the better wet weather choice, because the cave and the villages work in rain.

The three day breakdown is here: Day 1 from Cao Bang City to Ban Gioc, Day 2 through Nguom Ngao and Phong Nam, and Day 3 to the craft villages and God’s Eye Mountain.

Ba Be

ba be lake in thai nguyen

A large natural freshwater lake sitting in limestone mountains, with forest coming down to the waterline and Tay villages of wooden stilt houses along the shore.

What you get

A boat. That is the honest centre of it. Several hours on the lake, through the limestone tunnel at Puong Cave with bats overhead, out to the waterfall at the far end, past the small island in the middle. Then a stilt house homestay where you eat with the family, and an evening with nothing scheduled.

Around the edges there is kayaking, forest walking and quiet riding on roads with almost no traffic.

The catch

It is not a riding destination. If you came to Vietnam to ride mountain passes, two days at Ba Be will feel like a rest day that lasted too long. The lake is the activity, and if boats and forest are not your thing, there is not a second act.

Best for

Travellers who want to slow down, non riders, families with young children, anyone recovering from a hard loop, and people who want one properly restful stop in a busy itinerary. It also pairs beautifully with Cao Bang, since it sits between there and Hanoi

Mai Chau

mai chau hoa binh

The closest mountain valley to Hanoi and the softest landing on this list.

What you get

A flat green valley floor of rice fields, ringed by low limestone hills, with White Thai villages of stilt houses running through it. You reach it over a pass with roadside stalls selling grilled corn and sticky rice, which is a good introduction to how road trips work in this country.

Down in the valley the riding is flat, easy and pleasant: cycling is genuinely a better way to see it than a motorbike. There is weaving, there are homestays that have been hosting for decades, and up above the valley there are H’Mong villages on the higher ground with a market worth timing your weekend around. Pu Luong is next door if you want to extend.

The catch

It is the gentlest landscape here and it has been on the tourist route for a long time. Some of the homestay evenings are packaged for coach groups, complete with scheduled dance performances, and if you have seen the rest of northern Vietnam, Mai Chau can feel tame.

Best for

Weekend trips from Hanoi, first time riders, families, travellers with limited time, and anyone who wants a mountain village experience without committing to a mountain road. It is also the best of these five for people who do not want to be on a bike at all.

Y Ty

Y_Tý

Up above the Red River in the far northwest corner, near where the river crosses into Vietnam, at an altitude where cloud sits below you rather than above.

What you get

Cloud seas, which is the reason most people come. On the right mornings in the right months you stand on a ridge and the entire valley system below is white. It is not guaranteed, because it is weather, but the odds in cloud season are good.

Beyond that: Ha Nhi villages of thick walled earthen houses with small windows, built to hold heat, which look like nothing else in Vietnam. Terraced fields that are among the best in the country in September. Markets where the trade is real. The confluence where the Red River enters Vietnamese territory. And roads that are, for long stretches, completely empty.

The catch

This is the hardest entry here. The roads are demanding, the weather is genuinely cold and can be dangerous when fog closes in, surfaces vary and repair options thin out. Accommodation is limited to a modest number of homestays, and in September Vietnamese photographers book them out months ahead.

It is also the least organised. There are very few packaged trips, which means you are largely arranging it yourself.

And it sits right on the border. Access rules for some communes near the boundary are set locally and can change without notice, so ask in Lao Cai or Bat Xat before planning a route that runs along the line.

Best for

Experienced riders, photographers, and people on a second or third trip to northern Vietnam who have done the famous loops and want somewhere that still feels genuinely remote.

Head to head: riding difficulty

ha giang cao bang by motorbike Ha Giang Cao Bang Self-Drive

From easiest to hardest, based on what the roads actually ask of you rather than on how good the views are.

RankLoopWhat makes it that
1Mai ChauOne pass in, then a flat valley. Manageable for a complete beginner
2Ba BeEasy roads, low traffic, short distances
3Cao BangGood main roads, wide corners, a couple of rough access tracks
4Ha GiangLong climbs and descents, exposed passes, heavy traffic in season
5Y TyRemote, cold, variable surfaces, fog, limited help if something breaks

None of these are technical in the off road sense. What separates them is exposure, weather and how far you are from a repair shop.

If you have never ridden a motorbike before, do not learn on any of them. Mai Chau is the only one where a genuine beginner is reasonably placed, and even there you want a day of practice somewhere flat first. Everywhere else, ride pillion with a guide or take a vehicle.

Head to head: crowds

tourists of looptrails in ma pi leng pass & nho que river viewpoint

 Learn more: Ma Pi Leng Pass

Ha Giang is busy, and in October and November on the main circuit it is very busy. That is not automatically bad. The group evenings are a big part of why people love it, and you will make friends. But if solitude is the point, this is the wrong loop.

Mai Chau is busy in a different way: concentrated. The main villages take coach groups, the surrounding valley does not. Ride twenty minutes out of the centre and it empties.

Ba Be sees steady domestic visitors and few foreigners. On a weekday it is quiet.

Cao Bang is quiet almost everywhere except Ban Gioc itself, which fills with domestic groups around the middle of the day and empties again by late afternoon.

Y Ty is empty except in September and on cloud season weekends, when Vietnamese photographers arrive in numbers and every homestay is full.

Head to head: seasons

ngoc con valley vewpoint in cao bang

This is the factor people underweight and then regret.

Month rangeHa GiangCao BangBa BeMai ChauY Ty
Mar to MayVery goodVery goodVery goodGoodVariable
Jun to AugWet, green, slipperyWet, biggest waterfallHot, heaviest rainHotWet, landslide risk
Sep to NovBest, and busiestBestVery goodGoodSeptember is the peak
Dec to FebCold, foggy, quietCold, foggy, quietCool and quietMild and pleasantVery cold, best cloud

A few specifics worth knowing. Buckwheat flowers on the Ha Giang plateau come out around October and November. Rice harvest timing moves every year, so if you are planning around gold terraces at Y Ty or Hoang Su Phi, ask locally a couple of weeks ahead rather than booking a year out on the strength of a photo with a date on it. And winter on the high ground is properly cold: people underpack for this every single year.

Head to head: time and access

tourists of looptrails swimming in du gia waterfall

Learn more: Du Gia Waterfall

Mai Chau is the only one on this list you can reach in a morning from Hanoi. That makes it the obvious weekend.

Ba Be is a longer road trip from Hanoi, comfortably done in a day, and it fits neatly on the way to or from Cao Bang.

Ha Giang and Cao Bang are both overnight bus territory. You sleep on the bus, arrive early, and start riding the same morning, which is efficient and means you lose no daylight.

Y Ty takes the most getting to: an overnight train or bus to Lao Cai, then a further ride up into the hills, either along the river road or over from Sapa. Budget a travel day at each end.

If you have exactly three days including travel, Mai Chau or Ba Be. If you have four or five, Ha Giang or Cao Bang. If you have a week and you ride, Y Ty becomes realistic, or better, combine two loops.

Head to head: what it costs

tourists of looptrails in lo lo chai village

We are not going to publish other companies’ prices, and any article that quotes a single figure for a whole region is guessing. What is useful is the shape of the market.

Ha Giang has the most operators and the widest price range of anywhere in northern Vietnam, from very cheap to genuinely premium. More choice means more variation in what you actually get, so compare inclusions rather than headline numbers: how many people per guide, what the accommodation is, whether meals and entrance tickets are covered.

Cao Bang has far fewer operators. Prices are broadly comparable to Ha Giang for equivalent quality, with less competition at the budget end.

Ba Be and Mai Chau are cheap to do independently. Homestays, a boat, some food. Neither needs an organised tour unless you want the convenience.

Y Ty has almost no packaged options, so your cost is transport, a bike and homestays, plus whatever you spend on the extra days it takes to get there.

Our own rates are further down, in the section on what we actually run.

Can you combine two of them

ban gioc waterfall in cao bang

Yes, and it is usually the better trip.

Ha Giang and Cao Bang is the strongest pairing and the one we run most often. The connecting road east through Bao Lac and over the Khau Coc Cha pass is spectacular and almost nobody takes it, and it means you see both provinces without going back to Hanoi in between. Five days minimum, and the two halves genuinely complement each other: rock and altitude first, then water and villages.

Cao Bang and Ba Be works well as a gentler pairing, with the lake as a soft landing on the way home.

Ha Giang and Y Ty is the hard version for experienced riders, connecting across the top of the country through Lao Cai. Demanding, and worth it if you have the days and the ability.

Mai Chau and Pu Luong is the easy weekend pairing, since they are next door to each other.

What does not work well is trying to squeeze three loops into ten days. Vietnam is long, transfers eat time, and you end up spending your holiday on buses.

Which of these we actually run

ha giang loop for a family in du gia

Two: Ha Giang and Cao Bang. We are based in the north, we ride these two provinces constantly, and we are not going to pretend to be experts on the other three.

TripEasy rider, per personSelf drive, per personJeep, whole vehicle for 2 guests
Ha Giang Loop, 2 days3,490,000 VNDnot offered on the 2 day15,990,000 VND
Ha Giang Loop, 3 days4,490,000 VND3,790,000 VND19,990,000 VND
Ha Giang Loop, 4 days5,890,000 VND4,990,000 VND25,990,000 VND
Cao Bang Loop, 3 days6,490,000 VND5,990,000 VND19,990,000 VND
Ha Giang and Cao Bang, 5 days10,990,000 VND10,590,000 VND36,990,000 VND

Jeep prices cover the whole vehicle rather than a seat, shown here at two guests. Rates for one, three and four guests differ, so check the tour page. All of it includes dormitory style accommodation and everything on the tour, and excludes private room upgrades and the bus tickets to and from the start and end points. These figures were current when this page went up.

For Ba Be, Mai Chau and Y Ty we are happy to tell you what we know, and then point you at people who actually operate there.

Which option is best for you: self drive, easy rider or jeep

cao bang loop by jeep Cao Bang Loop Day 3

This choice matters more than which loop you pick.

Self drive if you ride at home. You get to stop whenever something looks good, which is the whole argument. You need your passport, a valid motorbike licence from your country and an International Driving Permit issued under the 1968 Vienna Convention. The 1949 style permit is not recognised in Vietnam and this catches out a lot of otherwise well prepared people. Riding without the right documents can result in a fine, and rules change, so check the paperwork properly before you travel. If you want a bike without a tour attached, we handle motorbike rental in Ha Giang.

Easy rider if you want to be on a bike but not responsible for one. You ride pillion behind an experienced local rider, your luggage is strapped down properly, and you look at the country instead of the road surface. No licence needed. It is the most popular thing we run and the one guests are most consistently happy with, particularly on Ha Giang where the passes deserve your full attention if you are the one riding.

A jeep if you are a couple or a family, if somebody in the group does not ride, if you are travelling with children or older parents, or if it is the wet season. Nothing on either of our loops needs two wheels: the passes, the waterfall, the cave, the valleys and the villages are all identical from a vehicle. We use Wrangler jeeps on Ha Giang and an army jeep on the Cao Bang loop, and since the price covers the vehicle rather than the seat, a group of four is where it works out best.

The deciding question is usually simple: is anyone in your group uncomfortable on a bike? If yes, take the jeep and stop negotiating with each other about it.

Paperwork, booking and lead time

ha giang loop for a couple in tham ma pass

Documents for riders. Passport, home motorbike licence, IDP under the 1968 convention. Check which convention yours was issued under before you leave home, because it cannot be fixed once you are here.

Insurance. Many travel policies exclude motorbike accidents unless you were legally licensed to ride. Read your actual policy wording, specifically the exclusions. This applies whether you are riding yourself or, on some policies, riding as a passenger.

Booking lead time. Once your dates are set, book as early as you reasonably can. Most of our guests book one to three months ahead. September to November is the busiest window across the entire north, and jeep availability is tighter than motorbikes on every route.

Accommodation on the quieter loops. If you are doing Ba Be, Mai Chau or Y Ty independently, book homestays ahead in autumn and around Vietnamese public holidays. Y Ty in September needs to be booked well in advance.

Mistakes people make when choosing

ha giang loop for a female group with looptrails

Picking the most famous one by default. Ha Giang is excellent and it is also not the right answer for everyone. If you have two days, hate crowds, or are travelling with someone who does not want to be on a mountain road, one of the others suits you better.

Underestimating the season. August in Ha Giang and September in Ha Giang are different holidays. So are November and January.

Choosing on scenery and ignoring the riding. The most beautiful loop is not much use if the roads are beyond what you are comfortable with. Be honest about your experience.

Trying to do three loops in ten days. You will spend the trip on buses. Two loops, or one loop and one slow stop.

Booking a three day Ha Giang trip and expecting Du Gia. The southern section with the waterfall is on the four day version. Check what is actually in the itinerary before you assume.

Leaving the licence question until arrival. It is the one problem that cannot be solved locally.

Which one to ride first? If it is your first trip north and you have four days, Ha Giang. If it is your second, or you want quiet, Cao Bang. Message us on WhatsApp with your dates and group and we will tell you which fits, including when the answer is one of the three we do not sell.

ha giang loop for a family with looptrails Northern Vietnam Loops Compared

faq

Ha Giang, if you want the biggest landscape and have three or four days. Cao Bang is close behind and much quieter, Mai Chau is the easiest weekend, Ba Be the most restful and Y Ty the most remote. Best depends on your time, your riding experience and the month.

Ha Giang for high passes, the karst plateau and Ma Pi Leng, with more people around. Cao Bang for a waterfall, caves, a jade green river and craft villages, with far fewer visitors. If you have five days, ride both on the connecting road through Bao Lac.

The main circuit is busy in high season and the viewpoints have queues in October. Many people enjoy the social side of that. If you want quiet, either ride Cao Bang instead or take the four day Ha Giang version that includes Du Gia and the southern section

Mai Chau, comfortably. One pass in and then a flat valley, close to Hanoi, with easy riding and gentle distances. Ba Be is the next easiest. If you have never ridden at all, ride pillion with a guide or take a vehicle rather than learning on a mountain road.

Mai Chau two, Ba Be two or three, Cao Bang three, Ha Giang three or four, and Y Ty three or four plus travel days at each end. Add a night bus at either end for Ha Giang and Cao Bang, since both are overnight trips from Hanoi

Cao Bang handles rain better than the others because the cave, the craft villages and the waterfall all still work when it is wet, and the waterfall is at its most dramatic. Y Ty is the worst choice in heavy rain, given landslide risk and fog on remote roads.

For experienced riders and photographers, yes, especially in September for the terraces or in cloud season for the mornings above the cloud. It is the hardest and least organised route here, with limited accommodation and real cold, so it is a poor choice for a first trip north.

Yes. Jeep tours cover Ha Giang and Cao Bang and see everything riders see. Mai Chau and Ba Be are both easy by car, and Ba Be’s main activity is a boat. Y Ty is the only one where not riding significantly limits what you can reach.

If you are riding yourself, you need your passport, a valid motorbike licence from home and an International Driving Permit issued under the 1968 Vienna Convention. The 1949 style permit is not valid in Vietnam. If you ride pillion with a guide or take a jeep, no licence is required.

Mai Chau, reachable in a morning by road, which is why it works as a weekend. Ba Be is a longer day. Ha Giang and Cao Bang are both overnight bus trips, and Y Ty needs an overnight to Lao Cai plus a further ride.

Ha Giang and Cao Bang is the strongest pairing and takes five days minimum, riding the connecting road through Bao Lac rather than returning to Hanoi. Cao Bang and Ba Be work well as a gentler combination. Three loops in ten days is too many.

As soon as your dates are confirmed. Most guests book one to three months ahead, and September to November fills first across the entire north. Jeep availability is more limited than motorbikes on every route.

Contact information for Loop Trails
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Email: looptrailshostel@gmail.com

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Address: 54A Tran Phu, Ha Giang 2, Tuyen Quang

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